lonelyplanet.com - October 30, 2024
You can tell a lot about a city from its monuments. Edinburgh’s – most famously the soaring Gothic spire commemorating historical novelist Sir Walter Scott – speak of lofty Enlightenment ideals, of a city steeped in literature and philosophy.
On the other hand, Glasgow’s best-known monument is the equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington that stands in Royal Exchange Square, famous not for its aristocratic subject but for the traffic cone that sits atop the duke’s head. The cone first appeared in the 1980s, and no matter how many times the authorities remove it, it keeps being replaced – a symbol of Glasgow's sense of humour and its democratic will, a reminder that Glaswegians are deeply proud of their working-class background and anti-establishment tradition.
For me, that sums up the great appeal of Glasgow – a city that is creative and iconoclastic; that doesn’t take itself too seriously; that is prepared to puncture the pompous pretensions of anyone who thinks themselves superior.
Scotland’s tale of two cities is the story of an ancient rivalry between close neighbours: one wealthy, middle-class and a bit stand-offish, the other poorer but friendlier and proudly working class. Get into a conversation in Edinburgh, and you’ll be asked which school you went to; in Glasgow, it’s which football team you support.
I’ve heard detractors say that Glasgow lacks the beauty of Edinburgh with its picturesque castle and elegant Georgian New Town. But Glasgow is one of the greenest cities in the UK, and on a sunny day the view from the top of the Glasgow Tower takes some beating, with the River Clyde unravelling a blue ribbon through the city sprawl and the Highland hills hugging the northern horizon.
The city centre is a feast for the eyes, if you only look up. The streets are lined with magnificent Victorian architecture – John Betjeman (1906-84), Britain’s former Poet Laureate, described Glasgow as “the greatest Victorian city in the world” – and huge mural paintings; my favourites include St Mungo (Glasgow’s patron saint, depicted as a homeless person) and Glasgow-born comedian Billy Connolly.
Once the powerhouse of the British Empire with its long tradition of shipbuilding and heavy engineering, Glasgow fell on hard times after World War II, a period which created its reputation for post-industrial decline. But since the Garden Festival of 1988 changed perceptions of the city, it has bounced back in a big way to become one of Britain’s liveliest and most engaging destinations.
Take a bike ride along the Clyde Walkway where the former shipyards have been redeveloped into a waterfront parade of modern architecture, from the distinctive zinc-clad forms of the SEC Armadillo and the Science Centre to the waveform roofline of Zaha Hadid’s spectacular Riverside Museum. Speaking of which, Glasgow’s museums and art galleries are world-class, with the breathtaking Burrell Collection, Kelvingrove and Hunterian beating Edinburgh’s offerings into second place.
And when it comes to eating out, Glasgow can easily hold its own against the capital. The Ubiquitous Chip, opened in 1971 and still going strong, was ahead of the game in promoting local produce and celebrating the best of Scottish cuisine (the name is a sly dig at our deep-fried culinary reputation). Fun fact: US TV host Craig Ferguson and Harry Potter actress Kelly Macdonald both worked here before they were famous.
Perhaps the most appealing aspect of the Glasgow vs Edinburgh rivalry is that you don’t really have to choose between them – the two cities are only 50 minutes apart by rail, making each an easy day trip from the other. And as any Glaswegian will be happy to inform you, the best thing to come out of Edinburgh is the train to Glasgow.
Edinburgh vs Glasgow: How to choose between Scotland's liveliest cities
